The figures below show the swell and winter profiles for the same beach. Which of the profiles (A or B) is the winter profile and what features characterize it as such?  

_________ is the bending of waves toward shallower water so that they break almost parallel to the shore.

Imagine that the ocean depth is 200 meters at a specific point. What is the speed of a passing wave, in meters per second, if the wave has a wavelength is 150 meters and period of 9.81 seconds? You will need to choose which equation for speed to use. Shallow-water wave:

Longshore currents flow __________

Which section of the beach is covered and uncovered by successive wave surges?

What would happen to the volume of sand at a beach if the inputs (or sources) were greater than the outputs (or sinks) of sand?

When would you expect a coastline to experience the greatest tidal ranges?

If a wave has a wave base of 50 meters and the ocean depth is 100 meters, what type of wave would it be?

If a wave has a wave base of 10 meters and the ocean depth is 20 meters, what type of wave would it be?

What direction do ocean gyres flow in the Northern Hemisphere?